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GLAM PERSONS PLURAL AT MAISON DE MODE

Shop ethical not deathical (eh?) this weekend at Amanda Hearst’s second Maison de Mode ethical fashion popup. It’s part of Frieze NY art fair—or at least, it’s in a gallery, so, clearly, is art. What’s special? The taste level! Super-edited selex from the obvious (Stella McCartney accessories, Organic by John Patrick, Edun), the soon-to-be-obvious (Liya Kebede’s Lemlem from Ethiopia, Osklen, Maiyet), the who-knew-they-were-ethical? (Morganthal Frederics, Christopher Raeburn), and the new finds (Spinelli Kilcollin, Angel Jackson). Stuff for boys too.

See you at The Hole Gallery, 312 Bowery, May 10-13. 12-7pm

Images courtesy of Maison de Mode: Above, Lemlem. Below, top to bottom: Maiyet, Organic by John Patrick, Angel Jackson

Our friends Elisa and Lily invite you New Yorkers to Music x Style on Thursday. Come after hanging with us at Go Green For Fashion ! We’ll be dancing the (rest of the) night away. It’s free, but you must email: rsvp@stylelikeu.com

Trash to Trend is the brainchild of Reet Aus, a designer that takes upcycling and sustainability seriously. Their mission is to share zero-waste design globally and to map leftover textile waste so that it can be brought back into the production cycle.

Here’s our run-down of their brands + our favorite picks:


1. Hula Tetris: Zero-waste design in the form of Tetris patterns. Nerds rejoice everywhere - especially in this M-skirt.

2. Reet Aus: Upcycling saves water & energy - plus, we like to imagine all the legs the denim pieces have walked with before becoming integrated into this very cool patchwork dress.

3. HoseWear: If your go-to bag can’t stand the pressure of daily life, try this tote - it can stand up to 20 bars of pressure, since it’s made from old firehoses. Save a life, save the planet.

4. Hula 10: A brand of the Estonian Art Academy - this chic knitted top is made from leftover trousers.

5. Second Design: For every plate accidentally broken, there was a missed opportunity to refashion some cute earrings out of them. Second Design makes up for that.

I’m very honored to be honored! New York Refashioners—you are invited to this awesome event. Green goodie bags, performances, eco designers runway show, cocktails of course. rsvp@lawrenceblake.com

—Kate Sekules 

FASHION INSIDER GUIDES BUT REALLY THOUGH

You know those people who know everyone and all the insidery secret places, yet are also supernice and generous with their secrets? Not really? That’s because those people are very rare. Lucky for us, Carole Sabas, who is such a person—and also happens to be Vogue France’s US editor—has been busy compiling her knowledge, and that of fashionish friends in Paris and New York, and they’re published on May 7th

It started when Carole, who’s from Marseille, is now a New Yorker, and was a longtime Parisienne, was asked so often for her platinum address book, she was persuaded to publish a petite volume called “The Paris of Fashion Insiders: a Private and Friendly Guide” (as adorable a title as a guide book ever had). This was followed by versions for New York and Brooklyn—all long sold out. Now they’re back, much expanded, with additional picks by the likes of Isobel Marant, Alexander Wang and Viktor & Rolf. We’re dumping the iPad. No travel app dresses this fine. 

Illustrations by Caroline Andrieu, via Vogue France

Above: Cordonnerie, Minuit Moins 7, 10 passage Véro-Dodat, 75001. Below: 7L bookshop, 7, rue de Lille, 75007. 

More and more high-end, sustainable fashion boutiques are popping up all over the internet, allowing those who will buy new to buy better. There’s Modavanti and Ethica, which both allows shoppers to pick and choose from the issues that matter most to them — would you like your bags vegan, fair trade, or local?

Newly established boutique rêve en vert doesn’t make you choose. They hold all their designers and brands to high standards, defining sustainable fashion as:

1. Locally produced and manufactured
2. Made from organic, recycled or up-cycled materials
3. Engaging with artisans and traditional means of production
4. Free from toxic chemicals and un-natural dyes when possible
5. Made utilizing fair-trade practices and ethical working conditions

We had a chat with founders Cora Hilts and Natasha Tucker about what turned them on to dreaming in green.

RF: Did you have a specific statistic, event, image or ‘aha’ moment about how the fashion industry needed to change to become more sustainable?

Cora: I had become concerned about the fashion industry after learning about the damaging effects of the textile and manufacturing sectors in my Master’s degree in sustainability, and I was reading Lucy Siegel’s book, To Die For:  Is Fashion Wearing Out the World?  There was a story within that really resonated.  A journalist was heading into Primark and she saw a young girl come out with five bags full of clothes one of which she dropped onto the street.  Rather than stop and pick it up, she left the bag with its cheap contents spilling out onto Oxford Street.  This sort of disregard for fashion and the processes behind it sparked a real desire to create change in the fashion industry, with a respect for people and the environment as well as a call—back to lasting quality and style.  

RF: Natasha, since you’ve spent time on an organic farm, what are your thoughts about the food industry in comparison to the fashion industry, in terms of becoming more sustainable (and local?) Will it be more difficult for fashion to reach similar standards?

Natasha: I think the food industry provides a great model off of which fashion can base itself in terms of moving towards sustainability. I think that the main difference, and the difficulty for fashion will be that people seem to have very opposing views about what goes in and what goes on their bodies. People are hyper aware of the health implications of eating badly, but most people don’t know that only 16 out of 1600 dyes are approved by the EPA as sound for human and environmental health. I think that once people begin to be more educated about aspects of fashion such as this, then consumptive behavior of fashion will also begin to change.

RF: And how have both of you changed the way you shop over the years?

 Cora:  Living in Paris for five years, I began to appreciate the French model of dressing—which often means having fewer pieces which are more beautiful and crafted. I quickly realized that I often reached for the same ten or so items in my closet that I considered the most beautiful and suited to myself. It became very easy to neglect high street shopping for the occasional purchase that I adored. Also, I appreciate a shopping experience that is pleasant and more tailored, something we are trying to cultivate with rêve en vert.

Natasha: I naturally grew towards wanting less in quantity and instead wanting fewer really unique and special pieces. I have definitely moved towards appreciating the quality in great craftsmanship and this is something that really resonates with what we are striving for in the work of our designers at rêve en vert. All of the attention to detail and the fact that you are getting something that is much more unique as it cannot be mass-produced really makes you feel proud of owning and wearing something. I think the story behind things is something I have grown to love and you don’t get that from high street brands.

RF: We are all about the stories behind our clothing at Refashioner. What are the stories behind your own favorite pieces of clothing?

Natasha:  I was given a pair of fabric shoes from my grandmother that she used to wear in the 60s. She has always been a style icon of mine, and I know how much she loved them, so to be given these meant a huge amount. I think the passing on of pieces like that is such a beautiful thing and I really want to be collecting pieces I can do the same thing with. 

Cora:  I have a neon silk dress from the Brooklyn-based designer Helena Fredriksson that is so beautiful—it drapes perfectly and the color is eye catching whilst being completely elegant. Also, my godmother gave me her vintage suede trench coat from the 70s that has a pink silk lining that I wear all the time. Wearing that makes me think of her, and I believe it has classic style.

 RF: And your favorite pieces on reve en vert right now?

Natasha: I have a beautiful pair of Shwood sunglasses that are a real statement piece. They are handmade in Portland, Oregon with as little manipulation to the wood as possible. There is an amazing intersection between production and nature created as a result and you can tell they are crafted with great care and attention to detail.

Cora:  The Berlin-based designer Isabell de Hillerin’s SS13 collection is all wonderful in my opinion, mainly because of the chic cuts and incredible hand-crafted detail, thanks in large part to her weavers in Moldova and Romania, where weaving is still truly an art form.  Her cream blazer with shoulder detail is a particular favorite of mine.

Our favorite? This Helena Fredriksson Box dress, produced in our very own New York. Some green dreams really do come true.

HAYDEN DUNHAM’S GENERAL AWESOMENESS

Who is Hayden Dunham (apart from being our model)? Well… She’s a performance artist-jeweler-costume-designer-conceptual artist.  And stuff.  Or…?

ReFashioner: So, what do you call yourself, Hayden?

Hayden Dunham: I think the nature of what I make is performative but I guess my role changes all the time so it’s hard to consider one in particular. My favorite part of the process of designing or making pieces is the moment where I let go of myself in the work and am just doing it. In those moments I feel like I am entirely present.

RF: Totally get you. That’s the best feeling. Tell us about your Moon Binder jewelry collection (above; and below bottom). 

HD: It uses concrete which is largely what our natural environment in New York is made up of. It’s interesting because it starts as a powder and when mixed with water creates an oozing paste that dries out anything upon contact. I’ve deeply enjoyed subverting the medium into something very soft and round and playing with feminine shapes.

RF: And how about your previous collection New Dust? Featuring human hair (Below, top).

HD: New Dust investigates feelings around the idea of nature and what it felt like as a child and what it is now. I started it after a trip home to Texas. I had been working with human hair a lot and became increasingly interested in the way other people reacted to touching it. Most of my work deals with questions around feminity and evolving notions of nature and how technology influences our conception of each.

RF: And so: what are you up to next? 

HD: I am about to go to Texas to fire these porcelain pieces. Right now I am working on a show with Travis Boyer that opens late June and also a collection with a Swedish design team based in Berlin. I am really all over the place literally!

RF: Glad we caught you!  xo

 

 

Saddened by over 400 deaths (and climbing) caused by the garment factory collapse in Bangladesh?


We are too. You may not own Joe Fresh, but the chances of an unethically produced fast-fashion garment in your closet are high. Please ask your own favorite clothing company to show us their own factories, so we can prevent tragedies like this from happening, and maybe have a little transparency as to who exactly makes our clothes, and how.


#showusyourfactory

Over 400 people have died from the Bangladesh factory collapse, and hundreds more are missing.

Joe Fresh has also promised to compensate families affected, which is a step in the right direction. They’ve kept a demure Twitter feed since the disaster, and their Facebook page is active with concerned and (rightly so) outraged consumers who’ve promised to put their dollars elsewhere.

But the solution isn’t to simply stop buying Joe Fresh products. Thousands of garment workers would suddenly lose their jobs, and their situation would worsen. The situation is far more fragile then suddenly waking up to a disaster and refusing to buy clothes from the company whose labels just happened to be photographed in the rubble.

What consumers need to start demanding of companies like Joe Fresh and the all of the others is transparency, accountability, and most importantly, to value the lives of people making their products over profit.

NPR asked ‘Would You Pay a Higher Price for Ethical Clothing?’, and only a fraction of people were willing to pay up to 20% more for the ethical choice.

What can and should be learned from this disaster is that we, as consumers, need to demand transparency and accountability. Look to Honest By, the world’s first 100% transparent company. Look to Made-By, an organization with a mission to improve environmental and social conditions in the fashion industry. Look to your own closet, and really ask yourself if you absolutely need to buy something brand new. If you do, you can purchase from the ever-growing resale market, or at least put your dollars towards companies that care.